By Jim Hunt for the News and Journal
One of England’s quintessential landmarks is Stonehenge, a prehistoric circle of
towering stones that has captivated the imaginations of people for centuries. When
planning our trip, my wife inquired about my must-see destinations. Stonehenge
immediately came to mind. Despite not knowing its exact distance from London, I
insisted we prioritize it. With a week at our disposal in London, we settled on a
Wednesday for our excursion into the English countryside.
Our chosen tour promised a packed day including visits to Stonehenge, the town of
Bath, and Shakespeare’s birthplace, Stratford-Upon-Avon. It required us to be at
Victoria Coach Station by 7:30 AM, and we would return around 8:30 PM. We rose
early, enjoyed breakfast at our hotel, and took an Uber to the station. The tour operators
were efficient; they promptly had us on the bus, and we departed on time. During the
two-hour drive, our guide entertained us with countless fascinating facts and stories
about his homeland, as we left London’s hustle and bustle for quaint villages and
pastoral scenes.
Upon nearing Stonehenge, I expected an immediate view of the historic stones but saw
only a large parking lot and a modern visitor center. The iconic site, set amidst vast
fields, felt surprisingly isolated. We were offered the option to walk or take a shuttle bus
to the stones. Choosing the latter due to the brisk wind, we soon arrived at the site. It's
difficult to articulate the surreal experience of seeing Stonehenge in person after years
of seeing it in media. My initial thought was its modest size amid the sprawling fields,
yet its presence was undeniably profound.
Stonehenge’s history underscores its resilience. As recent as 1915, it was auctioned
and acquired by Cecil Chubb for £6,600 (equivalent to £562,700 in 2024). By 1928,
after some surrounding construction, the site was secured by the National Trust through
public donations and preserved for posterity. The land was reclaimed for agriculture,
and buildings were demolished. Up until 1977, visitors could freely wander among the
stones, a practice halted to prevent erosion.
Despite the intermittent rain and wind, we explored the site for about thirty minutes
before returning to the visitor center. The visitor’s center contains a gift shop, snack bar,
rest rooms and a 360-degree exhibit that gives the history of Stonehenge from the
vantage point of standing in the middle of the circle of stones. The center was opened to
the public in December of 2013 and is the only structure of note on the grounds.
The visit was unforgettable, and I was thrilled that my wife and granddaughter could
experience this pivotal piece of history with me. We then set off for the Town of Bath, the
focus of next week’s column.